berger



J. BERGER, JR.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPUCATION mu) NOV. n, 1919.

6 SHEETS-SHEET I I e E \w mm xx ,vN /km x m mumm. XN .v *w as .wnv m %W 5% Q m A W Y w 06 g Q w \mwk @U g k f BERGER, JR.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV- ll, I919.

Reissue-d Mar. 9, 1920.:

6 SHEETS-SHEET 2- J, BERGER, IR.

SEWING MACHINE.

AFPLHIATSON FILED NOV- {11' l9l9-. Iieissued M211. 9, 1920.

vI. BERGER, In.

SEWING MACHINE,

MPPLICATION FiLEi) NOV. 1|, 1919 Reissued Mar. 9, 1920.

a SHEETSSHET 4. I

J. BERGER, lw. SEWING moms. APPucATmN FILED NQV.H,19-Z9.

I lteissued "Mar. 9, 1920. 1 4:,8 1 3.

Illllllllllllll IIIIIIMIIIIIIIII.

J. BERGER, 1a..

SEWlNG MACHINE. APPLICATION HLEQ ug v. n. p919.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOSEPH BERGER, JIM. 0F UTICA, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATIQN OF ILLINOIS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Reissued Letters Patent. Rei ugd B11 9 192() Original No. 1,281,900, dated October 15, 1918, Serial No. 135,253, flIed'Decembe-r 5, 1916. Application for reissue filed November 11, 1919. Serial No. 337,230.

citizen of the United States, residing at Utica. in the county of Oneida and Stctc of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewirig-Machines,

of which the following is a description, reference being bad to the accompanying drawings, and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines, and more particularly to a sewing machine for trim-' ming and uniting fabric sections.

Anobject of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of the above character wherein the ed portions of the. fabric sections will be trimmed and united by stitching, and wherein the trimmed edge portions will overlap with the trimmed edges thereof terminating within the limits of the stitching mechanism, whereby both trimmed edges will be covered. I

A further object of the invention is to provide such a machine which. may be used for joining a. collarctte strip to the neck of a garment and also for shaping the collarette strip as it is stitched to the garment.

. 'Ihese and other objects will in part he obviousand will in part be hereinafter more 'fully disclosed. i

In the drawings. which show by way of illustration, one embodiment of the. invention Figured a frontview of a machine embodying my improvements Fig. '2 is a rear view of the same;

Fig. 3 is a view partly in plan and partly in horizontal section through the machine above the presser foot;

Fig. 4 is a view partly in end elevation and partly in vertical. section substantially on' the line of feed;

Fig. 5 is a view partly in horizontal sec-,

tion and partly in plan through the. supporting bracket for the trimming mechanism;

Fig. 6 is a plan view showing a part of the work support and the throat plate;

Fig. 7 is a perspective viewof the throat plate;

Fig. 8 is a transverse sectional view just in front of the trimmers;

Fig. 9 is a transverse sectional view just in front of the stitching mechanism;

Fig. 10 is a transverse sectional view on 4'" line ust in rear of the trimming mechanism;

Fig. 11 is a perspective view showing a part of the stitching mechanism, the cross thread laying mechanism and the trimming mechanism and also the work support;

Fig. 12 is a perspective view showing more or less diagrammatically the manner of placing the edge portions and trimming the same returning said edge portions to normal position and joining the same by stitching;

and

Fig. l3is a. diagran'unatic view in trans-' verse. section showing the collarette strip and the body fabric united.

The invention is directed broadly to a sewing machine for forming a covered lapped seam, wherein the fabric sections are u-nited by a. stitching mechanism including a plurality of needles disposed in a line at an angle to the line of feed, complemerital stitch forming mechanism for joining the needle thread loops beneath the work support, and a cross thread laying mechanism for joining the needle threads above the work support, and wherein the edge portions of the fabric sections are simultaneously trimmed as they are stitched and in advance of the stitching mechanism by a trimmin mechanism arranged so that the trimme(v edge portions will overlap with the trimmed edges thereof terminating or lying within the limits of the stitching mechanism'where by said overlapped edge portions willv be joined, and both trimmed edges of said por- "tions will be covered by the concatenated threads of the stitching mechanism. The

feeding mechanism operates to feed the trimmed edge portions fromthe trimming mechanism past the stitching mechanism.

the upper face of the material and a looper forjoining the needle threads on the lower face of the material. The material is held on the work support by a presser foot which is formed with a slot sov that the edge portions to be united may be turned out of the plane of the fabric sections and led into said slot in the forward end of the presser foot..

A horizontally disposed trimming mechanism located inadvance of the needle, trims the upturned edges. The presser foot is irito the ET v i 1 detail to, lie'draw n'gs l l heve 'embodled 'i'ny invention in a sewing garment, back into iner is disposed a certain d stance above theif work support in proportion to the space between the-pneutlesgrsoqithat while the edge portions; overlap athey are located; wholly within the limits of thestitehing mechanism,

and; therefore; the edge. portions will be, joinedand the edgesetliereefcoveredyby ,the,

l'ifititchingflvlfi 'f}, *1- :,.j it :In uniting I the collaiettestrip vto ,the neck of ta garment; the mnmae strip is folded betweenfits side edges sothat theedge por-. tions :supe'rposed.- 'lhese. supe Jedge portaons aretrimmed 'a'nd stitched Ito the neck of the garment by stitching. By shifting :the' eollai'etterelative to the' trimming-point; the ends thereof inaynbeitapered, thus shaping the ,collarettea E'Befen-ing mofe nmehinw whichfliswpmvided :with the usual bed plate 1, carrying a standard 2,- support? I .e"aingianoverhangihgam 3,111 ;Wlll,(';llthe needle' ibar 4 reeiproeates'. This needlebarcare r-ies'two'needles 5 and-46. ,Tlie needle ban-iszmiproeated by aizleverfl. through; a pitman 3 orl eccentfic rbdvfl-iwhich,coiiperatesiwlth an onithednain shaft I (-loiiperating with then needles 'beneaflt the work support is a looper lOgfWliiGhis inolmted on i a lloopejr carrier 11$ andaithis :loo'per' carrier Ir s oscillatedibyca link illlcwhich =is .conneoted to the needle-slayer :oXt'ension 3;; I The; loopercarrieris piyrit'ally; mounted .on a; 'looper sup:

latedt' :for e'givingt the a usual needle. fa voiding;

a dpe'ratcsx-jwith both-needles and," tl'ierefore,

neeth'tha niaterla 529w: g-Thefmaterialato bez-stitghed varried-by a WOI'iEifiljIDOIfl l thrbatiplatewlfiz 3 his-:thimt plate has two needle; openiiigswl-rand v1i" forthetneedlesv 5' and; fi -imspe'ctivehti -Bietwcen the I ,v needl openings is "aEstitoh :suppmting 't ngue 19,

Thevtlmouhplate'r is: formed ;;,\v it hv slots 20 i e whielie-t. lea-aw. .-'the;{feedin'g devices; T u e feedingiidnviws-iinplude :1 =feed bar 22 which isareoipincattxli item; the I is! iii] f-feed;. Nickel;

n thefsliwfti li ulzail i-tl'ewnthtrl,rfeedingmeelm i iimurefmhl-y i ilse(l1- w liei'ein;,one feed nk' madvnne f the oth r am has a difiaredtmiiwemeilt relatire meta The maeeri'ldfiswlmld omLi lie work support; by a 6 presser foot 24 which is carried by a presser looper' thread; ioin's the needle loops, he,- y

t-rim'ine d edgeportions,

'ch another" uidit is stitched which :is pmvided with a bar 25. This presse'r foot is formed with the needle openings 26 and also with a slot 27, which leads from the front end of the pressenfoot and terminates in advance of the needleo ening'.

(lotiperating with the needles above the work support is a cross thread laying mech-' amsm which includes a, fixed guide 28 carried by a sui tahle'lug mounted on a bracket 29 which is supported by the presser bar.

floiiperating with this fixed \thread g'uide is a thread-hook 30Twliich is pivoted at 31 to the bracket 29. The shank of the thread hook is provided, with an M11132 5 which is connected; by-alink 33,to 1a lever 34. This lever 34 is, pivoted to the. bracket 29 land the outer endnof; theileveriis connected; to'a is oscillated byrmeans of a ,pitman lol' eccentrierodBBwhich eoiiperates with ,an eccentric on the main shaft. This serves as a,

means for oscillating the hook so that "it crossesthe linei of ,feed'and engages the cross thread-after ,Which the hook returns,

forming a-loop in the cross thread which is entered by the needle farthest from the fixed thread guide. In this ,manner the cross thread islooped about the two needle threads, connecting the same ou the upper surface of the material.

The trimming mechanism consists a Sta-f tionary trimmingblade 39 which is fixed to the I presser v foot and ;,a movzible trimming .blade v40 which vwith said stationary; trimmingwblader This :movaible blade 40is carriedby anfa-rm, 41 which is' fixed to a, sleeve i 2,a1 1dthissleeve 420a!- ries an arm 43 which isconnected to a link 44. The link 44 is pivotally'wnnected to,

an arm 45 mounted on a shaft 46 and this shaft 46 isoscillated by a pitinan 47 co6p-. crating with an eccentric on the main shaft."

1 Mounted onthe throatplate is a'vertical fin 48 which extends into the slot -27 inthe presser foot. This'fin istapered towilrdthe rear end tl iereof. as clearly shown in Fig; i 7 and the rears, lower end extends underneath the trimming"blade'hut terrniimtes direetlvin' rear th reof. The ,presser 'foot is formed of a fixe lsection 49 and ayielding' section 50. The front portion ofthe yielding section 50 is capable of lateral adjustnmnttoward and fromthe finf48. The

fixedsectimi i!) is providal-with an adjust able portionfii which, may be inoved toward and from the .'fin i4v8. Thisadjustable feature-of the presser foot provides a, means for varying the width of the slot into which I the fin extends and in-either side, of the hi].

In Fig. ll-of the drawings I have shown a. collarettc strip beingv stitched to the neck of a gamutnt, The collarette strip is indirated at S While thegarm'cnt is indicated at F". The collarette strip is folded intermediate its side edges and the edge portions thereof arc superposed.- These edge portions are turned .up out of the plane of the collarette strip and together with the upbye strip deflector 52. I

I flected away from the stitching mechanism The presser' foot is provided with a guide 53 which projects laterally therefrom into theslot 27 and "this guide 53 is sha ed so as to force the upturned trimmed e gcof the body 'fabricF .back into the plane ot' the body fabric. and underneath the u )turned portions of the collarette strip; he slot 27,: as will be noted, terminates in front of the-needles and the rear end of this slot turns down the edge portion of" the 1 collarortions are overlapped, "as-clearly shown in Fig. 12 of the drawings. The trimming blades are arranged atazproper distance above the throat plate so that when the edges are turned down and overlapped said edges will still be within the limits of the ettestrip onto the turned downportion of the body fabric and these trimmed edge stitching mechanism, that is, pass between w." ,on-ly. The crossfithrea'd andthe loopcr f .,edges of fabric sections to be united. means the. needles so that the needle 5 will, pass through the 'collarette strip only, while the needle 6 passesthrough. the body fabric "3'5t11rea d join the needle threads and. .unitc the .collarette strip and the neck portioirof the garment and these stitching threads not. only unite the fabric sections but Rivcr the trimmed edges thereof-. v 1 jg.-

As clearly shown in Fig..11,.the collar- :ettelstrip, has been tapered. YThe end vof the collarette strip is indicated at E. As this.

end is presented to thetrimiuing mechanism it is raised-so that the trimming memhers begin to trim the strip at the fold therein. fThe' st rip is gradually lowered as the stitching-proceeds and this results. in, ta )ering'tlie end ofthe strip. -\Vhen the,

ot ,1, end of collarcltte strip is reached it will be ilgtlll l raised'aml the cnd thereof .i'j v edge turning devices for manipulating. the

tapered.

It'isl obvious that the invention in itsstitching threads. It will. also be apparent; that in the specific embodiment of the invention illustrated, this trimming of the edge portions maybe brought about byhorizontally disposed trimm ng members arranged a certain distance dlbOVB the, worksupport and with devices for bringing the edge portions of the fabric sectionsinto the range of the trimmihg mechanism and for bringing said edge portions .to overlapped relation. The position otthe trimmededges,

that is. the extent of orerlap. is determined by the position of the trimming. devices.

\Vhen one of the fabric sections is of two thicknesses. as in the case of a collarette strip. lthen the portion plot the foot adjusted sufiicientt distance away from the fin to accommodate the double thickness;

of thehnaterial. I .-r

It v\vill' also be "noted that the thmat plate is raised above the work support and this givesjsufiicient clearance for the easy manipulation of the fabric sections which are being stitched.

It is obvious that -min'or changes in the details of construction maybemade without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended claims,

Having thus dcscribedthe invention, what is claimed as new is p 1. The combination, of stitching mechanism adapted to form covering stitches. a trimming mechanism located in advance the stitching mechanism for trimming the for directing the fabric sections to the trimining mechanism with the edge portions turned out of the plane of the fabric sections.v andJmcans located between the trimming mechanism and the stitching mechanism for returning the trimmed edge portions to the plane of the fabric sect-ions and 'withjthc trimmed edge portions overlapped and \vithin'ftbc limits of the stitching mechanism'whereby said overlapped'edgcs will be joined and covered by stitching.

broadest aspects." is not limited to hori- ,gontally dis msedtrimming members and edgeportions -o fthe fabric sections, but the essential feature of thellnvention consists in anparra ng'e'me'nt of trimniingjdevices which '1 efecomplishfthe broad result of produc-i portions wil'l'Iovei-]ap with the trimmed 2. The combination of stitching 'mecha nism adapted to form covering stitches, a

; work support, a presser foot having a needleopening, and a slotin advaneeof the needle opening leadin f from the frbnt of the press'er f oot,fa orizontal trimming mechanism including a movable "blade crowing the 1 said slot whereby upturned edge portions of fabric sections'leeding' through said slot WiHJbe'trimmQd, said presser foot having means in oithe trimming mechanism I for overlapping-thetrimmed ,edge portions withinthe limits of the stitching mechanism I whereby. said" overlapped trimmed edge portionsi. will be joined and covered 'by stiteh .l edges thereof termihatingtwithin thelirnitq "in Y of the stitching"mechanism. whereby g 3. The combination of stitching mocha- .Hwerlapped edge portions will be joined "and nism adapted to form covering stitches. a

g orizontal trimming mechanism including a.

a and extending into said movableblade crossing said slot whereby upturned edges of fabric sections directed into said slot by said fin will be trimmed, said presser foot having means for positively forcing one of said trimmed edge rtions underneath the other whereb said rtions will be overlapped within the limits of the stitching mechanism so that said edge portions will be joined and covered by 4.- The combination, of stitching mechanism adapted to form covering stitches, a work support, a resser foot havinga needle opening and a s ot in advance of the needle opening leading'to the front of the resser foot, a horizontal trimming mechanism includi a movable blade-crossing said slot where y the upturned edges of abric sections leading throu said slot will be trimmed,'a guide carried by the presser foot and extending into said slot, said guide beingdis soastocrowdoneofthe' trimm edge portions underneath the other where said edge portions may be returned to the plane of the fabric sectionsin overlapped relation. I I

5. The combination of stitching mechanism adapted to form covering stitches, a work support, a preeser foot havinga' needle opening and a slot in advance of the needle opening leading-to the front of the Presser foot a' horizontal trimm'ingmechanism ineluding a movableblade crossing said slot where y the upturned tions leading th said slot ,will be trimmed, a guide ,carried by the presser foot slot, said guide heso as to crowd one of the portions underneath the other wherebv said edge portions will be re-- turned to the plane of the fabric sections in overlapped relation, said trimming blades being disposed a distance abovethe work support so that the overlapped Pertlons will lie within the limits of the stitching mechanism whereby said fabric sections Wlll be trimmed, and the trimmed edges covered by stitching.

6. The combination of stitching mechanism adapted to form covering stitches, a

work support, a lpresser foot having a needle opening and a s ot in advance of the needle ope'ning leading to foot, said preseer foot being adjustable whereby the widthrof the slot may be varied,

a horizontal trimming mechanism including said slot whereby a movable blade crossi the upturned sections 0 the fabric sections leading through said slotwill be trimmed, and means carried by the presser foot in rear of the movable trimming blade for edges of fabric sec-o the front of the presser opening and a s ot in advance of the needle opening leading to the front. of the presser,

foot, a fin on the work support extending into said slot, said presser foot being adjustable for varying the width of the slot, a horizontal trimming mechanism including a movable blade crossing said slot whereby the upturned edges of the fabric Sections leading through .said slot "will be trimmed, said presser foot rear of the trimmin mechanism for.overlapping the trimm edge portions within the limits'of the stitching mechanism where by said overlapped trimmed edge portions will be joined and covered by' stitching.

8. T he' combination of stitching mechanism including spaced needles, a cross thread laying mec anism, and athreaded looper cooperating port, a' presser I log, and a slot in front thereof tgiening to the front of'the presser foot, a n on the having means in with both needles wherei by covering stitchesare' formed, a work supfoot having a needle openworklsupport extending into said slot, a

horizontal trimming mechanism 'includin movable blade crossing said slot where the 0 turned edges of fabric sections lea mg t rough the said slot' will betrimmed,

said presser foot havingmeans in rear of the trimmin mechanism for overlapping the trim edge portions within the amine: the stitching mechanism where-. bysnid overlapped trimmed edge portions yilbejoined and covered.

'9; The combination of a stitch forming mechanism, a feedin support, a 7 resser opening an from t e front, end thereof to a point 1n a mechanism, a work out having a needle 0. slot extending rearwardliy';

Vance of said opening, a horizontal trim ming mechanism including a crossing said slot, where y .u turned ed e portions of fabricsections f along said slot will be trimmed, and means disposed betweenthe point of trimming and movable blade the stitch forming mechanism for positivelyv guidin the trimmed edge portions into the gene plane of the fabric sections and in overla relation.

' 10. e combination of a stitchiformin mechanism, a feedin mechanism, a win support, a openiizg an a slo from c front end .thereoftoepoint in. vance of seid'opening mingmechanism ludi C e s resserf. l g tweak" extending n w r-25y,

I. hot-il um trimv i g a r pt d 11a rearwardy portions of fabric sections fed rearwardly along said slot will be trimmed, and separate means disposed between the point of trimming and the stitch forming mechanism for pos tively guiding the trimmed edge portions into the general plane of the fab ric sections and in overlapped.relation.

11. In a sewing machine for forming a' covered lap scam, the combination with work support, a 1 feeding mechanism, a stitchin mechanism including a, plurality of neefles, complemental stitch formim mechanism for joining the needle thread loops beneath the -work support, a cross thread laying mechanism cooperating with the needles above the work support, and a mechanism in advance of the stitching mechanism for trimming the edge portions of the fabric trimming the edge portions of the fabric sections being disposed and arranged so that the trimmed edge portions will overlap with the trimmed edges thereof terminating within the limits of'the stitching mechanism, whereby said overlapped edge portions will'be joined and both trimmed edges thereof willbe covered by the concatenated threads of the feeding mechanism operating to feed the sections, said mechanism on stitching mechanism, said trimmed edge portions past the stitching mechanism.

12. In a sewing machine for forming a covered lap seam, the combination with a work support, a feeding mechanism, a stitchin mechanism including a plurality of 'neec les arranged in plane at substantially right angles to the line of feed, a single threaded looper cooperating with the needles beneath the work support, a cross thread mechanism for laying a single cross thread cooperating with. the needles above the work support, and a mechanism in advance of the stitching mechanism for trim-.

erating to feed the trimmed edge portions past the stitch forming mechanism.

\ .In testimony whereof I afiix my signature.

JOSEPH BERGER, Jn. 

